Mauro and Mauro VS 2020 release
Whilst we are waiting for the Bordeaux 2020 prices to be released, I have had sample of 2020 Mauro VS delivered and thought it would be a good time to open it and release the stock.
Most of you would be familiar with Bodegas Mauro run by legendary Mariano Garcia and his 2 sons, Alberto and Eduardo. I have been working with this organically run estate (now in a process of conversion to Biodynamic) for many years and I am still amused by their ability to produce high quality wines with such level of consistency year after year. And with their magic touch, they are managing to deliver that unique Duero valley style wines which are approachable straight after bottling but retain the capacity to age like the best wines of the world. Not surprising that they have cult status in Spain and places like Switzerland and US (and slowly gaining recognition here in the UK).
2020 vintage was what they call “Atlantic” style which means that it was cooler than average and with more rain during the growing season. Resulting wines are more elegant and refined than the usual blockbusters with more polish in the tannins, more approachable and with developed aromatics from release (please bear in mind that “cool and rainy” in central Spain is equivalent of a hot and dry in continental Europe). 2020 is based on dark, soft summer stone fruit rather than black autumn berries which they would have in dry, hot vintages. All in all, Garcias have again managed to deliver beautiful, yet unpretentious wines which will bring a smile to your face immediately from opening.
Mauro 2020 – £165.00 per 6 bott under bond
This is a beautifully crafted wine which reminds me very much of 2010 and 2012 incarnations of it. There is little bit more backbone here, which probably comes from slightly increased % of Cabernet Sauvignon - about 15% these days including some Syrah. Eduardo is a wise (young) man and had planted extra Cabernet just in time to prepare and adjust for the effects of global warming. This Cab is planted at over 800 m altitude which means that it retains more freshness and structure in tannins as well as reduced sugar levels therefore reducing overall alcohol in the final blend. All in all, the structure and refinement of Mauro (which was a very fine wine already) is on the up and it retains its position as one of the finest value red wines in the world. Ok, it is not wine you would buy with resale in mind since all the vintages are of a very high quality and people just buy recent releases to drink, so there is limited demand for mature vintages. However, if you are investing in your own drinking pleasure, this is a must have for any decent cellar. The nose and palate are dominated by crunchy, ripe back cherries with hints of dark chocolate in the background and some very soft, creamy oak. Very yummy right now (been opened for 2 days) and will happily drink for at least 10 y.
Mauro VS – £300.00 per 6 bott under bond
ZR 18+; just released so no critics ratings yet, but VS is normally rated 94-98
VS (Vendimia Seleccionada = selected harvest) is a more grown up version of Mauro - 100% old wines tempranillo comes from estate vineyards with north and north-west exposure (cooler, fresher terroir) and 2020 had been aged for 26 months in French wood. There is always more substance and complexity to VS. It was tight after opening yesterday but showing great concentration and intensity on both nose and palate. Now after some 30 hours of being open it had stated to release the magic hidden underneath the structure. There is solid core of fine black forest fruit here interwoven into clean and solid but creamy wood structure with complex aromatic background. Tannins are so polished that you have to look for them and it lasts forever. An excellent drop of vino to open from 2027 and drink for at least 15 years (I have feeling that my rating is bit stingy). As with Mauro, there is very little 2ndary market for VS, but I feel that with more recognition for the estate, this might become a collectors item and it might be worth a punt if you are thinking long term. The liquid is certainly worth much more than the release price.
Wishing you all the best from Richmond