Good afternoon good people and I hope you have all had a very fine summer.
The time files and we are almost at the end of a very busy September. Harvest in Europe is over, the tasting season is in the full swing and I have been on the road for most of the last 3 weeks, hence no releases. But, do not worry. I have lined up few very decent releases and we will kick off with some very beautiful Burgundy.
Regular readers will be familiar Domaine d'Ardhuy, but as we have had quite a few new subscribers recently, here is a quick recap.
DOMAINE D’ARDHUY is based in a very fine Manor house in the middle of Burgundy. And when I say THE MIDDLE, I mean exactly that. The house is in the middle a single vineyard LE CLOS DES LANGRES which had been producing a very fine juice since it was first planted by the monks in 10th Century. This is the absolute last vineyard at the southern end of Nuits St Georges (Northern part of Burgundy). On the other side of the Domaine’s wall starts Cotes de Beaune (the southern part of Burgundy). The wines, especially the reds, are distinct from the wines further north in Nuits. The tannins are softer and juicier, but they still have more structure than the reds from further south in Beaune.
The Domaine had been in the same family since early 1900’s and is currently under the stewardship of a very talented young winemaker Vincent Bottreau (certified Biodynamic since 2012). They produce more than 40 different wines which are mostly distributed on the local market, so it took a bit of bartering and negotiations to get some allocations for the UK. The best news is that this year I have manged to get some of their Ladoix 1er Cru Le Rognet (white) as well as (what has become my favourite red Burgundy) - LE CLOS DES LANGRES. Despite the fact that the domaine is on the main road from Beaune to Nuits St Georges, it had not been reviewed by any Mayor critic (yet), so you will just have to trust my palate. Perhaps that is the reason why they are so well priced. Who knows what might happen if they start getting some 95+ points which I believe they very much deserve.
And now, to the wines. I tasted most 2023’s in barrel 2 years ago, then in November last year and again in the spring at a Paris tasting showing consistent quality and refinement (not to mention a bottle of LE CLOS DES LANGRES 2022 opened for lunch yesterday – review at the bottom of this release). These are very fine wines and I really do not understand why they are not better known. Still, that is only beneficial to those of us who enjoy a decent glass of fine Burgundy. The thing that impresses me the most is the consistency of the quality across the range and vintages.
Whites:
Ladoix 2023
ZR – 16+
The juice for this Ladoix comes from south-east facing slopes just under the Corton Grand Cru. The 2023 is slightly richer than the 2022, displaying classic white summer flowers on the nose. It presents fuller body on the palate dominated by late summer pears and peaches. Very hedonistic for a “humble” village wine. Drinking well already and will drink very well for further 2-3 y. I can not emphasize enough how great value for the money this wine is. An absolute Bargain for White Burgundy lovers!
Ladoix 1er Cru Le Rognet Monopole 2023
ZR 18+
Now this is superb!!! Le Rognet is a Grand Cru vineyard for red Burgundy. But as the domaine owns a large Grand Cru holdings under Pinot Noir, they decided to plant chardonnay on this small parcel, effectively declassifying the parcel to 1er Cru level (for white wines). The quality is at the level of the best you will find amongst 1er Cru Vineyards further south in Puligny Montrachet. There is perfect balance of ripe summer stone fruit and uplifting acidity one would find in tropical fruit (“apricot and mango embraced in a tango” was written at the beginning of my original tasting note). There is enough there to go on for few years, but I doubt that anyone will be able to resist it once delivered. The bad news is that we have only 60 bottles (10 x 6) for the whole of the UK, so it will need to be allocated to those who buy across the range, I would consider this to be a bargain even at double this price.
Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2023
ZR 19
I know, I know, I know. You will all ask, how can this be worth twice as much as Rognet. Well, it is a proper Grand Cru and in Burgundy that carries fair bit of weight. Also, the juice for this Charlemagne comes from old wines at the top of the hill of Corton. It feels like older, more intelectual brother of the hedonistic Rognet and is about as classic, high quality White Burgundy, as one can hope to find; displaying all the hallmarks of a serious Grand Cru. Overall structure of the wine is more intense with slightly more complexity and intensity than the Rognet, which I expect will evolve more depth and will last longer - rich and elegant at the same time. This is starting to drink even now, but will be improving over the next 24 months and will drink well for at least further 3-5 years. Ok, at £ 110 per bott + vat it is by no means a cheap wine, but it is a serious bargain compared to large number of famous 1er and Grand Crus in Puligny and Meursault. If you are thinking of dropping £100+ on a bottle of white this season, this one will beat anything else that I have tasted recently in this style.
Reds:
Ladoix rouge 2023
ZR 16
The family owns a strip of land going down from the top of the hill of Corton to the main road, The grapes for this cuvee come from 30 years plots at the lower parts of the slope - altitude around 250 m. Being lower down the slope, the soil here is slightly richer, providing earlier ripening and softer tannins. This 2023 Ladoix is already a joy to drink. Tannins are highly polished, pure and soft, displaying red cherries and soft red fruit on the palate. Very well constructed, with just a hint of wood in the background - a fine example of New World wine making with classic Burgundian structure. You can’t really ask for more from a glass of Pinot Noir from anywhere, especially Burgundy. Will drink very well for about 3-5 y.
Ladoix Clos des Chagnots Monopole 2023
ZR 17
A bigger and more powerful brother of the Ladoix (above). This single vineyard is just underneath Grand Cru Le Corton and by all accounts it should have at least a 1er Cru status. It is further up to slope on the soil with more stones allowing for better drainage and providing grapes with more precision, concentration and intensity. It presents a more serious and intellectual expression of Ladoix with focused black cherries and prunes, and a bit of spicy cedar in the background. Intense but polished tannin are keeping it all together. A serious Burgundy, very fine and long; It will reward 2-3 years of patience and expect it to hit drinking table from autumn 2028 and go on for 5 y+. A lot of wine for this price!
Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Les Peuillets 2023
ZR 17+
Les Peuillets 1er Cru is the most southerly 1er cru in Savigny Les Beaune and lies just across the road from the famous Beaune 1er Cru - Clos de Roi. The juice comes from vines at around 45 y of age on a sandy/rocky soils with great drainage capacity allowing for easy ripening even in difficult vintages. As 2022, the 2023 is showing the real 1er Cru class. One of the deepest, darkest wines on the estate, shiny and attractive in the glass. It is still young, but very approachable due the richness of the vintage. The palate is dominated by dark summer berries and cherries and at this early stage the tannins are still very evident with fine balanced acidity in the back - hedonistic and classy at the same time. If this liquid was carrying one of the famous villages names, it would be cheap at double the price. A very serious drop of wine and a seriously good deal.
Corton Grand Cru Les Renardes 2023
yes, that is per 6 bottles and yes that is a Grand Cru Burgundy for just over £ 80 per bott inc duty and vat.
ZR – 19-
The domaine owns 4 different Grand Crus at the hill of Corton and the Renardes is the biggest of them. The owners had decided to price is in such way that normal people can have access to a Grand Cru wine - kudos. Sitting at over 300m altitude, Renardes Grand cru comes from 55 y old vineyards grown at Iron rich limestone making powerful wines with high potential for long ageing and development. The nature of 2023 vintage had delivered softer, richer version of it. Quite full bodied for red Burgundy, this presents intense ripe black fruit and fine vanilla oak in the background. All is wrapped in tannins which are so highly polished that you really have to look for them behind the fruit. All together, a really fine drop of wine which will bring a lot of smiles from about 2028 for some 10 years and more. Very classy drop of Burgundy and a bargain to boot.
And to finish, the wine that made me fall in love with this Domaine -
LE CLOS DES LANGRES 2022 Monopole
ZR 18
This vineyard is effectively a garden around the house and not normally offered for export due to tiny production. But, I fell in love with it and would not take a no for an answer, so finally, we have 120 bottles for the UK. Please note this is 2022 vintage - they have not released the 2023 yet. The vineyard is just outside the village border, so has no appellation, but the style and quality is on the level of some of the best village wines I have tasted for a long time. The style here is more gentle and refined (think Vosne Romane) than big and powerful (think Gevrey Chambertin), but it is the complexity and length that shine here. Being a vineyard surrounding the house (average age 55 y), it is impeccably kept, and grapes can be processed immediately after the harvest, retaining all of the aromatic complexity. The usual Burgundy suspects are on display (black cherries, griotte, creamy blueberries, bit of spice) but it is the overall feeling of the liquid that is impressive. Even this young, it provides a very soft coat on the palate, very ethereal and hedonistic. One of the wines that will immediately bring a smile to your face. All is there in beautiful harmony and I feel that I can not give it as much praise as it deserves. One of those wines that makes all the searching and tastings worth a while. Just gorgeous. Those monks knew what ther were doing some 1 000 years ago.
And so, the sun has just come out and it is th time for a little walk.
Wishing you all the best
Zoran
City Wine Collection Ltd